Eyebrows are enjoying a surge in popularity around the world. In recent months, I’ve seen articles in The Orange County Register, Australian Vogue, Hindustan Times and Latina Magazine hailing the return of the bold brow.
More than mere beauty statements, brows are communicative—just think what one raised eyebrow can convey without a word being uttered! Brows also play a role in facial recognition. I was intrigued by studies in which people had trouble recognizing familiar faces in photos after the eyebrows had been removed or digitally altered.
So what can be done about sparse brows? At the simplest level, makeup offers a solution, of course. If you don’t like the flat, fake look of eyebrow pencil, you may be happier with tinted eyebrow mascara, which adds color and dimension.
If makeup doesn’t make your brows look as full as you would like, it’s time to consult a dermatologist. I called Neal B. Schultz, MD, an assistant clinical professor of dermatology at Mount Sinai School of Medicine, who told me that it is important to consider possible underlying medical causes of thin brows. For instance, he said, eyebrows that are sparse only at the outer edges (nearest the ears) can signal a thyroid imbalance… hair loss that affects other areas of the body in addition to eyebrows could indicate a systemic problem, especially hormonal. Such conditions should be ruled out or addressed by an endocrinologist.
Usually, however, thinning brows are simply the result of repeated overzealous plucking or genetics. Options for giving brows a boost…
Minoxidil (Rogaine). This nonprescription topical medication is sold as a liquid solution or foam. Dr. Schultz recommended the 5% strength, not the weaker 2%. “Though the 5% solution often is labeled ‘for men,’ it is safe for women to use on the brows,” he said.
Apply one or two drops or dabs of minoxidil to each brow twice daily. Put it only where you want hair to grow, as it possibly can instigate growth wherever it touches the skin. Possible side effects: Itching, skin irritation. Cost: About $30 (it should last you six to 12 months, since the brow area is small).
Latisse. This topical liquid medication, available by prescription, is FDA-approved for growing longer, fuller eyelashes. Dr. Schultz noted, “No published studies prove that Latisse works on eyebrows, and it is not FDA-approved for use on the brow. However, I have used it for brows in my own practice and my patients have seen positive results.”
Apply Latisse to each brow twice daily. Possible side effects: Itching, skin irritation. Latisse costs about $120 for a kit that lasts a month or so—but it typically results in greater hair growth than minoxidil does, Dr. Schutz told me.
Some people achieve optimal results by using both minoxidil and Latisse twice daily. Typically, people see improvement after two to three months, but it may take up to six months. Drawback: Effects start to diminish six to 12 months after you stop using these products.
Hair transplant. A specially trained dermatologist performs this in-office procedure using local anesthesia. For more information, Dr. Schultz referred me to hair transplant surgeon Robert M. Bernstein, MD, coauthor of Hair Loss & Replacement for Dummies.
Dr. Bernstein explained that the doctor takes about 250 follicular units (groups of one to four hairs) from the scalp at the back of the head… divides these into single-hair grafts… then inserts these grafts into tiny needlepoint incisions in the eyebrow, following the natural changes in hair direction in different parts of the brow.
There may be slight swelling for a few days and, as with any procedure that breaks the skin, there is a small risk for infection. Though results are permanent, the transplant won’t stop other brow hairs from falling out, so eventually you may need to repeat the procedure. Cost: About $5,000 for both brows.
